“Unrestricted Woman” – Classic red rose with white flowers
and a touch of unconventional orris oil, musk and pachouli
Unrestricted Woman is the signature fragrance of the women’s line of Old Khaki clothing designer and retailer (part of the Cape Union Mart Group). Old Khaki’s Unrestricted Woman Eau de Parfum is the counterpart to Unrestricted Man, but is entirely different – a white floral-based perfume with unconventional notes of Patchouli, Oil of Orris and Musk, which does indeed make it “unrestricted”. Even the bottle is something out of the ordinary. Max Millies of Earthgro provided the formula, the perfume itself, and also the bottle and packaging, to Old Khaki’s brand and product specifications. (The animal on the bottle top and the box is an Old Khaki icon called a “groat”.)
Rose Odenol (classic rose) is the top note, the first to reach the nose. It is a timeless, sophisticated, easily recognizable aroma. A romantic musk-like scent often comes from the flower’s stamens. While the classic old rose fragrance is found almost exclusively in pink and red English roses, an unusual and strong scent of fresh tea can be smelled in Tea Roses.
The middle note is a grouping of floral notes of White Flowers, which have a heady, sweet-floral scent profile typically found in white jasmine, orange blossom, gardenia and tuberose. These white flowers all have a substance known as indole, a white crystalline material which is rare and expensive. Some flowers are more indolic than others: tuberose has more of the mentholated scent of indole, while orange blossom has little. Unpleasant in high concentrations, indole in flowers nevertheless smells sensual and sharp – quite sexy really.
The base notes are a combination of Patchouli, Oil of Orris and Musk.
Patchouli, also called Patchoulol or patchouli alcohol (C15H26O) has a musky, earthy, exotic; and Patchouli is also called “the scent of the sixties”.
Oil of Orris (only a minute 0.1-0.2%) is a sweet floral, warm & tenacious with a fruity undertone; used as a fixative.
The base note is Musk, a woody, earthy, warmly spicy fragrance. Perfumers no longer use the glandular secretions from animals such as the musk deer, an endangered animal, to obtain musk. Nearly all musk fragrance used in perfumery today is synthetic, sometimes called “white musk”, or Muscone ((R)-3-methylcyclopentadecanone C16H30O). Synthetic musk nevertheless can be said to have an animalistic odor, and some people say it smells of human skin.
Where to get it
Author: Carlos Vieira, Licence: ATTRIBUTION LICENSE 3.0 Creative Commons, Downloaded at Mazwai.com
Still images: M.F. O’Brien, with permission